From: CoopWright@aol.com
Date: Wed Dec 04 2002 - 10:05:13 CST
Gary
That is a hard one to answer because everyone has their own personal favorites. I wouldn't recommend youth members purchasing all leather boots. They are simply too expensive and if your youth members' feet are still growing, they may last a single season. A good quality synthetic boot seems to work best. If there is a good outdoor sports store in your area, have the sales staff fit the boot. Now backpacks. I love my internal frame, but, backpacking happens to be my hobby. Internals cost about twice as much as external frames and can be a lot warmer on the trail. So I recommend a good external frame pack, about 4000 cubic inches that will have sufficient volume to handle four days worth of food. Just like boots, packs need to be fitted to the person, so have your outdoor sports store spend some time adjusting the pack. There are a whole range of different type sleeping bags. I recommend a good synthetic fill, mummy bag rated at 20 degrees that weighs close to 3 pounds. I have included the writeup on personal gear that is included in the Philmont Advisor's Guide (an unofficial 84-page publication that is available from me as an e-mail attachment for a $10 donation to our Venturing crew's activity fund) that goes into further detail.
Personal Equipment
For most first time Philmont hikers, it is not unusual to spend $300 to $500 in equipment. The most often purchased items are boots, sleeping bags, packs, and rain gear. Hopefully, the decision to go to Philmont comes prior to Christmas so that some of the gear may be obtained as Christmas presents.
Most outfitting stores recommend leather hiking boots for Philmont because of the support they provide when compared to high-tech synthetic boots. However, leather boots cost more and are harder to break in. Wally's son Wes required a new set of boots each time he went to Philmont because his foot grew. Spending $125 to $200 on leather boots just does not make sense when a synthetic pair of boots costing $40 to $90 will work just as well. Outfitting stores will also say that synthetic boots will fall apart due to the ruggedness of Philmont's trails. In his eleven trips to Philmont, Wally has never seen a synthetic boot fail. Coop knows several Appalachian Trail thru-hikers that experienced no problems with synthetic boots. In fact, several thru-hikers preferred the synthetic boots because of their ability to dry out faster than all leather boots. In 2002, Mimi Hatch used an all synthetic boot, the Asolo GTX FSN 95 women’s model, and came through without a blister. In fact, she didn’t even need any moleskin or Spiroflex. The jury is still out on Gore-Tex boots. During Coop's 1998 Philmont trek, the boots that got the wettest during a heavy downpour were Gore-Tex. However, we also talked to several Rangers who loved their Gore-Tex boots. In any case, if new boots are needed, plan on purchasing them in March. This will provide enough time to break in the boots while reducing the possibility of them being outgrown by Philmont. If you do buy leather boots, make sure that they have been waterproofed several times before you head to Philmont.
Some hikers have replaced their boots insole with a more expensive gel type insole. In 2002, Mimi replaced her insoles with SuperFeet insoles on the recommendation of several outdoor outfitters. She felt that her new insoles distributed the weight of her foot better and was a factor in her blister free trek. If you choose to do this, be sure to try out the new insoles during your shakedown hikes. Coop replaced his insoles and found that the new insole raised his heel out of the boot’s heel cup and caused a blister.
Each crewmember should wear two layers of socks. The inner layer should be synthetic (polypropylene or CoolMax) sock liner. The liner wicks the moisture away from the foot to the outer sock. When the foot is dry, there is a decreased chance of a getting a blister. Some of the new high tech socks state that an inner layer sock is not required. Christian Braunlich, a Philmont Ranger and REI employee, still uses two layers even when he wears his high tech socks for the extra protection. Heavy wool socks as outer layers are great. However, some crewmembers do not like the feel of wool socks and they take a long time to dry out once they get wet. Coop likes the all-synthetic Thorlo Hiking sock that does it not itch and dries quickly because it contains no wool. Wally, Mimi and Mary Lane use Smart Wool socks. Even though they do contain wool, they are very soft and dry much quicker than the all-wool ragg socks. Like most backpacking equipment, it really comes down to a matter of personal choice. Whatever type you use, pack three pairs of outer socks and two or three pairs of sock liners. Make sure that you check the condition of your crew's socks before you head for Philmont. Too often, crewmembers will buy new boots and neglect to buy new socks. Socks do wear out! If the socks' padding capability is worn down, get new ones.
Hikers also need to pack an in-camp shoe that can be worn once you get into camp and can get your boots off. A set of moccasins or running shoes makes an excellent in-camp shoe. Tevas are now permitted in the backcountry, although Philmont requests that they be worn with socks. Philmont still requires the wear of a closed toe shoe or boot when cooking, branding, rock climbing, horseback riding, spar pole climbing and your conservation project. Getting into in-camp shoes gives your feet a rest and gives you an opportunity to sun dry your boots. You may want to bring along a set of in-camp socks. Mimi uses a Coolmax anklet style for her in-camp sock that is cooler and lighter than wool and dries quickly when washed. Whatever type of in-camp shoe you choose should have a low impact sole that keeps it from further damaging the ground of your already over camped camp site. In-camp shoes should be easy to get on and off for those late night visits to the latrine. And finally, they should be comfortable enough for you to hike in to the next camp site, if you are having severe boot problems.
You will see many different styles of walking sticks on the trail. Some hikers prefer a single stick. However, over the last several years, Coop has become an ardent believer in using two walking sticks. The sticks are adjustable and can be lengthened or shortened according to the terrain. They provide much needed support and relieve some of the pounding that would normally be absorbed by your body. A medical study has shown that the use of two hiking sticks results in 250 tons of pressure being transferred from the back, knees and legs to the arms during an 8-hour hiking day. They also serve as poles for the crew tarp eliminating the need to carry additional equipment. They can be a pain if you are the crew photographer trying to take a picture. However, some walking sticks have integrated camera mounts, which allows them to be used as monopods for on-the-trail full crew shots.
An inexpensive pair of ankle high gaiters is nice to have. Gaiters help keep your boots and socks clean and dry. They also prevent small rocks and sand from getting inside your boots.
Sleeping bags should be filled with synthetic fiber, weigh less than four pounds, and be rated to 25 degrees. A mummy bag is lighter and warmer than other design types. At Philmont's higher elevations, the temperature gets into the thirties at night and there always seems to be a stiff breeze blowing. Other than boots, the sleeping bag is the most important piece of equipment a crewmember will bring to Philmont. Crewmembers need to know that the one and only place where they will always be warm and dry is in their sleeping bags, inside their tents. Care must be taken to assure that the bag is properly treated. Crewmembers must never get into their sleeping bags wet, because the moisture reduces the warming ability of the bag. During the night, the bag also absorbs moisture from the body. Every opportunity should be taken to air out the bag. Otherwise a 25-degree bag will become a 30-degree bag the next night and so on. Down sleeping bags are not recommended because they lose their insulating capability when they get wet. Even though most sleeping bags come with a "water-proof" stuff sack, an additional plastic trash bag or an Army waterproof bag should be placed in the stuff sack to provide a second layer of protection.
An inexpensive closed cell pad is a must for all crewmembers. Not only does it provide a comfortable sleep even on those not-so-level places; it also prevents heat loss downward and provides a barrier against moisture should your tents leak in a heavy rain. Cascade Design produces the Z-Rest, an excellent pad that is very comfortable, is less bulky than traditional pads, and can even be used for a camp seat! For advisors, we recommend a Therm-A-Rest sleeping pad because of its ability to provide a good night's sleep. It also adds 5-10 degrees of warmth when compared to sleeping directly on the ground. While a Therm-A-Rest pad costs around $50, it is well worth the investment. Therm-A-Rest pads come in two models; the full length and the 3/4 length. Although the full-length model is a little heavier, it keeps the feet off the ground that could keep the sleeping bag dry should your tent floor get wet.
It is really difficult to give advice to crewmembers on rain gear other than it is a must and it should be good quality. You should note that the ONLY rain gear listed on Philmont's personal equipment list is a rain suit and NOT a poncho. If a crewmember has money to burn, a Gore-Tex rain suit would be recommended. Gore-Tex allows perspiration to escape while keeping rain out. However, a Gore-Tex rain suit typically costs $150 to $300 and can be heavier than coated nylon. Both Coop and Mimi have switched to Marmot’s PreCip jacket, a less-costly alternative to Gore-Tex for breathable, waterproof raingear for under $100. A lightweight coated nylon rain suit works almost as well and costs under $60. Do not purchase the less expensive, but much heavier PVC rain suit. The beauty of a rain suit is that the jacket can also be used to keep warm, when layered with a wool or fleece sweater. Our Philmont Rangers thought that an inexpensive rain suit was far superior to the most expensive poncho. Before you buy any type of rain gear, make sure that it states "waterproof" and not "water resistant". Water resistant fabric may handle a light dew, but will become water logged and soak the wearer after only a few minutes of an afternoon Philmont rain. Prior to going to Philmont, you should test your rain gear. Your neighbors might get a chuckle, but wear a light colored t-shirt under your rain gear and get sprinkled with the water hose for about 10 minutes. This will provide a good test to determine whether your raingear needs to have a treatment such as Nikwax’s TX-10 Direct applied. Sarah Rogers, a Philmont Ranger, has been known to stand in the shower at home to check out her raingear!
Most crewmembers wear hiking shorts and t-shirts throughout their trek. What we have found that works the best is to have a set of hiking clothes and a set of in-camp clothes. After setting up camp, wash the body salt from the t-shirt, shorts, and socks you have worn on the trail. Philmont has recently established a new policy of no clotheslines in the backcountry because of the damage 20,000 campers can cause to the trees at campsites each season. So we suggest stringing clotheslines between tents, draping your clothes on rocks, or hanging them from the ridgeline of the crew tarp. In the morning, even if your hiking clothes are not completely dry, put your t-shirt and shorts on. Don't worry, they will dry out while on the trail. Wet socks can be safety pinned to the outside of your pack to dry as you walk along the trail. Diaper pins, because of their size, make excellent drying pins.
Cotton underwear? No way. Both Wally and Coop use nylon blend hiking shorts with an inner brief to provide support. The smooth surface of the nylon shorts also helps to reduce the chaffing for hikers with thunder thighs like the two of us. George Kain wears a set of synthetic (CoolMax) underwear under his Philmont cotton shorts. Other advisors have worn unpadded nylon bike shorts or a Speedo swimsuit under their hiking shorts for support. All of us agree that cotton underwear is impossible to keep clean and dry.
We recommend as a minimum that the t-shirts be 50/50 cotton. If you can find an all synthetic t-shirt (Philmont now sells a Duofold t-shirt in the Trading Post), use it for your hiking t-shirt. Road Runner Sports, (800) 551-5558, www.roadrunnersports.com, sells CoolMax shirts at very competitive prices. Synthetic t-shirts will wick the sweat away, protect you from losing heat due to moisture during colder weather, and dry quicker when washed.
Crewmembers will also need a set of sleep clothes (t-shirt and a set of nylon running shorts) that is only worn while sleeping. When getting ready for bed, each crewmember takes off his in-camp clothes and places them in a plastic bag. This past year, crews got conflicting guidance from their Rangers concerning where to put their in-camp clothes when they headed to bed. Some crews were told to put their in-camp clothes back in their packs, which were then placed inside the “Bearmuda” triangle (see Camp Setup). Other crews were to throw the plastic bags containing their in-camp clothes away from their tents. The only time crewmembers were told to put their in-camp clothes in the “Oops Bag” (see Bears and Bear Bags) was when they had major food spills on them thereby making them a smellable. The bottom line is that in-camp clothes should never be stored inside tents because they could contain food smells.
Over the past several years, because of the poor snow pack and lack of rain, there was very little for the bears to eat, so they moved into Philmont's low country looking for food. Rangers will spend a great deal of time discussing your crew’s actions to minimize the chance of a bear incident occurring, including the use of sleep clothes. Another way that crewmembers can bring non-human smells into the backcountry is through the use of fabric softeners on their trail clothes before they arrive at Philmont. Fabric softener fragrance will last on trail for several days until an individual's natural body odor takes over. You may have to wash your clothes several times without soap at home to ensure that there is no detectable odor. Or you can purchase non-scented soap from stores that sell hunting supplies. Remember, bears don't see well, but they have a tremendous sense of smell. The bottom line is if you are going into bear country, it is best to sleep in clothes that have not been exposed to any smells.
A set of lightweight synthetic (polypropylene or other type fabric) long underwear can be a plus on the trail, especially if you are scheduled to arrive at Philmont early in the camping season when the mornings are still cold. Long underwear can also be used as a means of increasing the warmth of your sleeping bag, especially if your trek has you camping at higher elevations. We suggest bringing your long underwear with you and making the decision whether you will bring it on the trail during your shakedown at base camp. In 1997, no one in Mimi's crew (with the exception of one adult) brought long underwear on the trail and they did not miss it. However, Peter Bernier, a member of Coop's 1996 crew, wore his polypro and fleece to keep warm during several hailstorms and heavy rains that occurred during his 1997 Rayado trek. Again, it is a matter of choice.
An outer warm layer is absolutely required. Although wool has been a traditional choice, synthetic fleece has taken over because of its lightweight, ability to dry quickly, and softness. DO NOT rely on cotton sweatshirts to keep you warm! A fleece or wool knit hat is an absolute must in the backcountry. The body does not have the ability to reduce blood flow to the head to save heat as it does with other extremities. A knit hat offers tremendous warmth for minimum weight. Both Wally and Coop have used their knit hats each year they have gone to Philmont.
Long pants are required for spar poling, horseback riding, branding, and the conservation project in addition to the obvious of keeping warm. Most crews we saw wore high nylon content pants that were extremely lightweight and dried out very quickly. Convertible pants with legs that zip off allow you to carry long pants and an extra pair of shorts with just one garment. An acceptable substitute is to wear your long underwear bottoms under a pair of hiking shorts. Rain pants will also work, but there is the possibility of damaging them during spar pole climbing. Stay away from jeans or sweat pants. Both are made of cotton and are impossible to dry out once they get wet.
Some hikers like wide brim hats. They provide protection from the increased level of ultra violet rays found at higher elevations, but are cumbersome while hiking. If a baseball cap is used, be careful of severe sunburn on the tops of the ears. For fair complexion crewmembers, we recommend a 30 SPF sunscreen as a minimum. Coop uses 50 SPF because he has fair skin. The sun and low humidity can also cause severe chapped lips. The one lip balm that seemed to work best and received outstanding reviews by both our crews was Carmex. There are also other lip balms, like Chapstick, on the market that contain sunscreen that can reduce the possibility of sun burned lips.
Each crewmember needs a minimum of three 1-quart canteens. If you know that your itinerary will have a dry camp, we suggest that each crewmember bring along a lightweight 1-quart plastic bottled water bottle (or better yet, a roll-up canteen made by Nalgene) in addition to the regular canteens. Because it was exceptionally dry at Philmont in 1998, 2000 and 2002, each member of Coop's crew had the ability to carry four quarts of water. It is a lot easier to supply the crew with water if each crewmember carries an additional quart of water into a dry camp instead of having one or two members try to carry the very bulky and heavy 2 1/2 gallon plastic water containers.
We have seen more crews using hydration systems (Camelback, Platypus) on the trail at Philmont. Although these systems offer the convenience of being able to take a drink through a tube without having to take off your pack, Wally, Mimi and I are not big fans of them for several reasons. When you drink from one of these systems, it is really hard for an advisor to tell if a crewmember is really drinking enough, unless you are aware of who is urinating and who is not. Wally knows of one crew in 1999, where a crewmember became dehydrated even though he was using a Platypus, because he was simply not drinking enough and his advisor was not aware of his fluid intake. In 2002, Mimi decided to try a hydration system on her shakedown hikes, but switched back to her Nalgene canteens because she felt that she was not getting enough water. Hydration systems can also build up mildew in their drinking tubes if they are not properly cleaned. Personally, we like taking a water break, whether it is a short “packs on” break or a longer “packs off” break and taking a good slug of water. During the break, you can quickly assess by looking at the water level in each canteen, to see how much water each person has consumed. In addition, most packs have external pockets that provide easy access to a canteen if you need a drink while you are walking.
A butane lighter works better than matches and is more dependable. Get a see-through type so that it is easy to determine when the lighter is out of butane. Each crew needs a sewing kit with safety pins. If an advisor travels a lot, ask him to take one from a hotel where he stays. Heavy-duty thread and needles need to be added to this kit in case a pack comes apart. Duct tape comes in handy along the trail for all sorts of jobs from patching tents to attaching a loose sole of a boot. An easy way to carry duct tape is to wrap it around a fuel bottle. Remember that duct tape is also considered as a "smellable" and must be put in the bear bag.
If you can find an old closed cell sleeping pad, you can make your own "Advisor's Pad" to sit on by simply cutting out a two foot square section. An alternate is a closed cell kneeling pad sold at most lawn and garden shops. It sure is a lot more comfortable than sitting directly on the ground. For those advisors who may have a "deep seated" problem, fold the pad in half to double the cushion. We are also seeing more Crazy Creek chairs on the trail. They provide both bottom and back support, can be used as a sleep pad by those who are really trail nuts and are practically part of a Ranger’s equipment. But if you do use your chair as a sleeping pad, be very cautious when eating in you chair to avoid carrying smells from spills with you to bed.
Be sure to mark all common items such as canteens, ragg socks and sock liners with a permanent marking pen. Things begin to look alike after ten days on the trail and it becomes hard to tell them apart. A suggested personal equipment list is contained in Appendix E.
Finally, try to get your total pack weight as light as possible. Heavy packs just sap energy and strength, make you more prone to injury, and reduce your potential for having a good time on the trail. Both Bob Klein and Troy Hayes are real sticklers when it comes to reducing total pack weight. Bob even gives his crew a list of equipment with the maximum acceptable weight for each item of personal gear. He even brings a postal scale to gear shakedowns and weighs each item to make sure that meets his criteria! If an item is too heavy, it is rejected! You may think that this might be extreme, but Bob’s crews typically leave Base Camp with water and food with packs that weigh less than 35 pounds, compared to most crews with pack in the 40 to 50 pound range.
Some advisors are still in the car camping mode when they arrive at Philmont, bringing along that extra something “just in case”. This is a huge mistake and the extra pounds will soon begin to affect their performance on the trail. The idea is to leave Base Camp, with the lightest possible pack, with the right amount of personal and crew gear for your trek and no more. Start eliminating ounces from your very first shakedown. A requirement for Backpacking Merit Badge is to discuss ten ways to reduce your pack’s weight. Some ideas include:
· small rather than large (as in flashlight, knives, etc.)
· right size (e.g., a 4 ounce bottle of sun screen instead of a 6 or 8, a small tube of toothpaste)
· just-as-good-but-lighter (coated nylon rain gear instead of PVC, grocery store water bottles instead of canteens)
· double duty items (bandanna can serve as a towel, handkerchief, and headband; synthetic long underwear top can keep you warm in the campsite and serve as sleep shirt)
· avoid gadgets (such as Leatherman, hydration systems, heavy camp stools)
· sharing (one set of toothpaste or Camp Suds bottle per tent)
· smart purchasing (mummy bag versus a rectangular bag)
· clothing system based on layers
· take only what you need (a cup and spoon for eating gear instead of a cup, bowl, spoon and fork)
· eliminate dead weight (walkman radios, footballs – yes Troy Hayes has seen one!)
There are a growing number of ultra-light backpackers who would have a field day with the gear that we take to Philmont. We would have to give up our full-length Therm-A-Rest pads, our in-camp clothes and our camp shoes! These minimalists, however, have the experience, confidence, and physical conditioning to compensate for any mistakes they might make in packing that we as advisors cannot. We encourage you to work with your crews to reduce the weight that each member will carry and believe that the equipment lists in Appendices D and E have been tested over time and represent what you will need on the trail at Philmont. However, for those of you who might be tempted to try the ultra-light method of backpacking (on your own first and not at Philmont), an excellent resource is Beyond Backpacking, Ray Jardine’s Guide to Lightweight Hiking, AdventureLore Press, (800) 247-6553. While we don’t agree with everything Ray Jardine has to offer, he does present a different way to approach gearing up.
Packs
Unless you come from a very unusual Scout troop, this will probably be the first time that you or your crewmembers have ever carried personal and crew gear, food for several days, and several quarts of water in a pack at one time. Packs that made it for years on troop campouts simply don't have enough volume to handle what you and your crew will be carrying on the trail at Philmont. We find that most Philmont hikers get a new pack before their trek. As an advisor, it is difficult to recommend a type of pack to bring to Philmont. Pack selection really boils down to individual choice and the amount that you are willing to pay for the pack. External frame packs are the most common and cost significantly less than internal frame packs. They allow you to strap on additional equipment giving you greater flexibility in what you can carry. External frame packs usually come with lots of built in pockets that provide easy access for needed gear. They are also cooler to wear which is a significant plus in the New Mexico afternoon heat. An external frame pack for a Philmont trek should be a minimum of 4000 cubic inches.
Internal frame packs are basically bags that are built around a hi-tech suspension system. They fit closer to your back and almost become a part of you while on the trail. External frame packs feel more like wearing a ladder when compared to the fit of an internal frame pack. Since sleeping bags are carried inside of an internal frame pack, minimum size for a Philmont trek should be no less than 4500 cubic inches. Both Wally and Coop began backpacking with external frame packs but have switched because we like how internal frame packs feel and carry the loads.
No matter which type of pack you have, there are four things that you must do to ensure that your crew is ready to go. First, check to see that the pack is fitted to the individual crewmember. An improperly fitted pack significantly increases its apparent weight and carrying difficulty. The hip belt must fit snugly around the waist to allow the full weight of the pack to be carried on the crewmember's hips while at the same time providing enough padding to protect the hips. The shoulder straps should be padded and fit the width of the shoulders. When viewed from the side, shoulder straps should be level (or a little upward) from the shoulders to the pack frame. If you don’t know how to fit your pack, find someone who does. Second, check the condition of the pack. Most crewmembers have probably never rinsed the salt and sweat from their pack's suspension system. Dry rot of pack's stitching and fabric may already have started. Check the stitching at all stress points in the pack material. Check the grommets on the shoulder straps and hip belt to ensure that they have not pulled out of the pack material. Check the pack frame welds to ensure that they are not cracked. Third, make sure that the pack is large enough to carry all the crewmember's personal gear plus his share of crew gear. Make sure that each crewmember brings along one or two replacement clevis pins and O-rings. JanSport packs require special nuts, bolts and wrenches that are not readily available at Philmont. Finally, we both recommend bringing a pack cover that is designed to fit your pack. A pack cover will beat a trash bag any day. However, trash bags will work. Just plan on bringing several (4-5) because they will rip and tear on the trail. If a crewmember does not have a pack that you deem adequate, he can rent one at Philmont for a very reasonable cost (2000 cost was $20.00).
Cooper Wright
Advisor, Crew 1519
Alexandria, VA
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