From: Jerry Lewis (jerrylewis@attbi.com)
Date: Sun Jan 13 2002 - 11:26:52 CST
I'm also a 4-timer for what started out years ago as Trek 21. Let me add this about
coming up and out of Red Hills:
Start up the drainage as soon as it's safe to hike. That's usually between 6:15 &
6:30. The drainage is really tough climbing. One time we were eaten alive by
mosquitoes going up it; another, we froze to death. If you caterpillar, this is a
pretty good place to do it, although the pathway is tight. The points I wanted to
make deal with once you reach the top of Big Red. (By the way, wait for full
breakfast until you get up there. Don't waste time down in Red Hills. Down a power
bar and hump it.) I've done all the choices off Big Red over to Shaefer's. Here's
now the way I'd do it today.
The shortest way is up and across the mountains from Comanche Pass. We did that the
first times and it's a killer because you can't carry enough water out of Red Hills.
We climbed up & over Black Mountain in full packs, too. Dumb; beautiful, but dumb.
Wanting to avoid that, the last time, we took what looked like the most direct route
to Black Mountain Camp. You drop off Red Hills to the south and descend in a
drainage along Urraca Creek. Good plan, but trail is never used; so, Philmont
doesn't maintain it. We had more than 50 blowdowns blocking the trail. Not only did
it kill our schedule, but we got an adult hurt crawling under one of the trees.
What's left? Well, stay high a while and hike on over Big Red to Comanche Pass. Do
this slowly and carefully because there is no trail--only cairns; and they are
sometimes missing. At Comanche Pass, NOW drop down another drainage to Urraca Creek.
Much better trail and used enough to keep relatively clear. Should be a pleasant
walk and water awaits at the bottom.
As a side benefit, if weather permits, you can almost always get a chance to shoot
black powder rifles as you pass through Black Mountain Camp. The range is right in
camp; so, you don't have to hike miles to get to it as you do with the other two
black powder sites. Plus, they're usually the most fun-filled interpretive staff.
Do lunch, blister fixing, rifles, and water up there. Spend the afternoon hiking the
creek to the tiny trail camp at the base of Shaefer's Peak. In 2000, that trail--a
much used trail--was also crossed at least a dozen times with bad deadfall. We did
it in the rain and made for really slippery footing. Since that trail is a necessary
artery, I'd be surprised if ROCS or the roving trail fixers haven't cleaned it up by
this summer.
Jerry Lewis
ASM & Philmont 2003 Advisor
Troop 303, McKinney TX
----- Original Message -----
From: <CoopWright@aol.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list philmont <philmont@troop47.com>
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Philmont]: Trek 30
> I've done Trek 30 four times and I think it is the best one on the ranch.
> The first day on the trail is the hike from Ponil Turnaround to Sioux. As
> you walk through Ponil, be sure to stop at the sign indicating the first gift
> of land by Waite Phillips to BSA. This was backcountry headquarters in 1938.
> Although it is a crew decision, I try to stay out of the cantina. The guys
> in the cantina are typically on their last day on the trail and you are on
> your first. Not a good idea. On your way up to Sioux, be sure to fill your
> canteens and water bags at the base of the hill going up. It will save a
> return trip.
>
> On Day 2 head north to Bent, then over Wilson Mesa, one of Philmont's
> prettiest places. Logistics will try and talk you into going back to Ponil
> and picking up burros. The burros are an experience in themselves, but the
> views from Wilson Mesa are spectacular. You should be into Peublano for
> lunch. Be sure to do the spar pole climbing. Also, Peublano's campfire
> traditionally has been pretty good.
>
> On Day 3 you will hike thru Peublano Ruins to Ewells Park, one of my favorite
> trail camps. A beautiful high meadow surrounded by aspen. The spring is in
> the south section, in the aspens. Be sure to look at all the campsites.
> Don't just check the first one. Set up camp and head down to Miranda for
> black powder rifle.
>
> Day 4 is Baldy day. Get up early, bring empty packs for your commissary
> stop, warm clothes, raingear, Polar Pure, two canteens per person and shower
> gear. Hike to Baldy Town and eat breakfast there. You can ask the staff to
> leave your extra empty packs for your food pickup and your shower gear behind
> under the commissary. You must start your hike from Baldy Town by 8 am or
> the staff will not let you go up because of lightning danger in the
> afternoons. Once out of the treeline, don't forget to spend time in the
> meadow in the saddle just before the final ascent. Too many crews focus on
> the peak and miss this awesome place. Head down the back side of Baldy into
> Copper Park and have lunch. It is decision time for the crew whether or not
> to go to French Henry. We typically do not since we will have the same
> program at Cyphers Mine. After showers and food at Baldy Town, head back to
> Ewells.
>
> Day 5 is a hike into Head of Dean. If you get there early enough, you can do
> morning program, but it means getting out off camp at first light and eating
> breakfast on the trail. The new trail from Baldy Skyline is awesome!!!!!
> Head of Dean has a nice spot for layover crews. We typically set up our tarp
> and hang out. You may be doing your conservation project at Head of Dean, so
> you will be spending a full day there. We typically eat supper for lunch at
> Head of Dean because of their reliable water. Be sure to check with the
> staff on the water at Santa Claus before you head out for your overnight stay
> there.
>
> Day 6 is nothing but hiking. Another bust out of camp early. Be sure to
> camel up because your next good water is at Vista Grande. The hike down Bear
> Canyon is very nice thanks to lots of trail work. Cross over Highway 64 and
> the Cimarron River (don't get water because you will have to double purify
> it). The climb up to Vista Grande offers some awesome views of Baldy. Have
> supper for lunch at Vista Grande. The spring is usually flowing, but not
> very quickly. The walk into Deer Lake Mesa has some great views of Midnight
> Mesa. The reservoir at Deer Lake Mesa is pretty funky, so get your water
> downstream of the reservoir.
>
> Day 7 is another early out day (are you seeing a trend here?) You want to be
> at Ute Gulch commissary eating your breakfast and waiting for it to open for
> your re-supply. The commissary has good water too. Once you get your food,
> it is time to move out to Cimaroncito. If you get there early, you might get
> a morning rock climb. If it is a late morning rock climb, you will have time
> for a shower. Instead of taking the short way to Clark's Fork, we usually go
> thru Hidden Valley. It takes a couple of hours longer, but you have a
> wonderful hike with awesome views from window rock. At Clark's Fork, you
> will get a chance to brand your boots and have a chuck wagon dinner. Be sure
> to take in the western campfire.
>
> Day 8 is all uphill (no kidding). Again an early morning out of camp. Just
> before the turnoff to the trail leading the Cyphers, stop at the Hunters
> Cabin. This is a great spot and you will get a chance to find out more about
> Waite Phillips. The trail to Cyphers is okay with the first part in the
> shade. The last section is on a 4 wheel drive road which is a bummer. At
> Cyphers you will be given an Adirondack shelter for your crew. Be sure to do
> the forge and take the mine tour!!! That evening is the stomp which is a
> real hoot.
>
> Day 9 is another uphill day without program. Take the trail (NOT the 4-wheel
> drive) out of camp and switchback up to Thunder Ridge. At Thunder Ridge you
> can take a break before the final climb to Commanche Peak. Before heading
> down to Red Hills, hang your food and side hike Phillips. You will not
> regret the views to the west. Red Hills is my least favorite camp with very
> little room for tents. The last time I was there, the latrine was high up in
> an open area so you can wave to the crews as you do your daily dump.
>
> Day 10 is another beaut. There are several ways to get to Shaefer Pass. The
> first is to go thru the saddle between Comanche Peak and Big Red, follow the
> 4-wheel drive road to Comanche Pass and follow the ridge in. Some big
> disadvantages; the trail is very poorly marked (even my buddy Dr. Bob got
> lost) and there is no water. The second is to take the trail thru the saddle
> between Big Red and Bonita Peak into Black Mountain Camp. From there you can
> either follow the North Fork Urraca trail into North Forth Urraca camp or go
> up to Black Mountain (the Black Death) and follow the ridge in. We usually
> take North Fork Urraca because it offers lots of water and the trail is
> beautiful and easy to follow. We eat supper for lunch and then head up to
> Shaefers Pass.
>
> Day 11 is your final day on the trail. We get up early enough so we can be
> on the top of Shaefer's Peak for sunrise. Last time we got up there we
> shared it with about 4 other crews. What a wonderful experience. Then it is
> off to the Tooth. Go ahead, climb it. It will be your last climb of the
> trek, I promise. From the Tooth into Base Camp is a death march. The new
> trail has you switchbacking several times in front of base camp. By the time
> you get, you will probably be completely out of water.
>
> Trek 30 is a great trek that offers the very best of Philmont. Be sure you
> know what you are doing on Day 10!!!! I can't believe that it has be
> downgraded to a strennous hike. Check out the amount of climbing that you
> will be doing. This is one of the hardest treks at Philmont.
>
> Cooper Wright
> Advisor, Crew 1519
> Co-author of the Philmont Advisor's Guide
> Alexandria, VA
>
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