From: Jim Moss (BSARecLaw@Earthlink.net)
Date: Wed Jan 29 2003 - 13:56:54 CST
Altitude sickness, (AMS) High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) are still pretty unknown ailments. If you want to do in dept study on the subject, the Wilderness Medical Society, www.wms.org has the most information and studies.
Magic number for AMS, HAPE or HACE seems to be 8000 feet. Today there is a guy in Breckenridge, 9000 with HAPE. The local MD and I had dinner last night and we discussed the case.
Diamox is great for assisting in acclimating. Prescription drug, start taking 1-2 days before ascending and then continue while ascending. Makes your fingers, toes and nose tingle. At high altitudes, I love that feeling, reminds you that nothing is frozen yet.
Gingko Biloa (sp) has been studied scientifically and has the same results as Diamox for some people. However there are only three studies, 2 French and 1 US study.
Cure: For HACE and HAPE the guaranteed cure is get down. For AMS, Water, Aspirin (see my rants on the value of Tylenol - Zero in the mountains) and antacid. After first quart of water do a 50% solution of a hydration solution like Gatorade etc. There is one in a red package I prefer based on experience, I think it is ERG?? but memory is faded.
Dehydration is connected to all three, AMS, HAPE and HACE, however the specific how's and whys are unknown. Hydrate from departure to arrival back at base camp and you statistically have a better chance.
Fitness has no affect. (Other than your general overall feeling.)
I live at 9780. Flew to Florida for Christmas (80 feet) and came back and had a headache for a couple of days. 80 to 9780 in one day. (I know better but thought I was used to it........)
HAPE and HACE seem to have a pre-disposition. If you have had one, you have a greater chance (90%) chance of getting it again. HAPE is what prevented Sir Edmund Hillary from climbing any other mountains.
Symptoms: AMS: Headache. Really nasty bad headache. Nauseous and sluggish. The theory on the nauseas is that the blood is thin from lack of water, which turns it acidity and thick. Acidic makes the stomach nauseas and assist in not getting O2 to the head, (headache) or CO2 out.
HACE: AMS symptoms plus Sick, sluggish, loss of balance.
HAPE: AMS symptoms plus Sick, sluggish and wet lungs. (With HAPE you drown in your own fluids sort of.)
Several other symptoms, that I memorize when going high again, but nothing I can remember now.
Funny: The theory now is you acclimatize while sleeping. So some mountaineers are climbing high, dropping there load and taking a nap, then climbing down for the night. People who do not understand, come over and wake you up because they think you are dying, so the naps are sort of sporadic. I was on Orizaba, Mexico 18000, a couple of years ago and fell asleep at 17000, waiting for people. Woke up with someone yelling. (I stuck my ice axe in the snow, put a leg on either side and laid down on my pack.) Some climbers walking past thought I was dead. I started snoring and it scared them so much they yelled and woke me up. I explained I was not dead.
Jim Moss
PO Box 2656
Silverthorne, CO 80498-2656
JHMoss@Earthlink.net
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