Signe --
Here's the write-up on Itinerary 4 you requested. It's my edited version.
The original was 27 pages long single-spaced.
Trek 624-G3
Troop 895
Richardson, Texas
bob.vernon@sbcglobal.net
Use it any way you wish.
Thanks,
Bob V
1098 Edith Circle
Richardson, TX 75080-2923
972.699.9161 voice
972.238.5852 fax
bob.vernon@sbcglobal.net
Day 1 ‹ Lovers Leap
Easy day. Itıs a nice hike up to Lovers Leap. Look for the Eagle (hint, itıs
a rock formation situated on the west side of Lovers and it looks like an
Eagle head if you use your imagination). We saw a Golden Eagle flying
nearby. We took this as a good sign.
Hike down from Lovers and over to Lovers Leap Camp. Large meadow ringed with
campsites. Take your pick. Water is located at a trough that his downhill to
the east of camp and back toward Lovers Leap. Holes near the trough are made
by Pocket Gophers. If you get there early in the morning, you might see one
or two (if the eagle doesnıt see them first).
Day 2 ‹ Urraca
There are a couple of ways to get to Urraca Camp from Lovers. Our choice was
to take the pack trail up through the switchbacks to the southeast, then cut
back east on the old 4WD (For Hikers Only) trail before turning right n the
4WD trail to Urraca. Our crew chose this route because the alternative was
to go by Stonewall pass, then come in over the top of Urraca Mesa. Because
we would be traveling that same route in reverse the following day, our crew
voted not to conquer the same ground twice. Urraca has potable water. If you
ask, the staff will provide you with a washtub so you can do a quick
laundry. Sure, youıre only two days on the trail, but a clean shirt and
clean socks and liners are nice until you can get to Beaubien. You can also
sneak in a sink bath.
The teambuilding program at Urraca is fun. Anna Hueffed of Huntsville,
Alabama, ran our program and did a good job.
Note, the campfire program at Urraca is not great. Try to learn what you can
from the story of Black Jack Ketchum. Heıs a bad guy who was caught and
hanged in Cimarron. His head popped off when he was hanged (photos of the
hanging ran in Life magaine, and they are on display at Old Mill Museum in
Cimarron ‹ donıt worry, the photos arenıt that bad because he had a hood
on).
Day 3 Bear Caves
Start the morning with a hike up to Inspiration Point for breakfast. The
trail leads out of the teambuilding area near The Wall. Note: Leave your
backpacks in a pack line by the staff cabin at Urraca camp to make the hike,
otherwise, youıll have to leave someone with them to climb Inspiration Point
because you canıt take your packs up there.
Take the pack trail west out of camp and up over the top of Urraca Mesa. You
can drop packs at the intersection of the pack trail and the 4WD trail. At
this point, after hearing the ghost stories at the Urraca campfire, you can
take a quick side hike and look for the "left eye," but donıt expect to find
anything. You will see a really cool tree that was hit by lightning and
burned from the inside out. Also, if you follow the trail around, you can
get a great shot of the Tooth of Time.
The 4WD trail leads you to Stonewall Pass. Look for the rocks that make up
the Stone Wall, and youıll know you are on the right trail.
On the hike to Bear Caves, you will see your first stand of aspen. Youıll
also start to notice more spruce and fir trees. If youıve studied your
Philmont Field Guide, you can point out some of these trees. Itıs
educational and it helps provide an advisersı break.
Bear Caves is a trail camp. The spring is located across the meadow not far
from the ruins of some old pump station (just to the left of our
pilot/bombardier in the meadow). Thereıs a nice, shady campsite near the
spring. Itıs comfortable during the day, but the mosquitos do come out in
force during the evening. Bear cable is for campsites on the west side of
the meadow is north along the meadowıs edge near the trail to Crater Lake.
Trail to Crater Lake is at the far north end of the meadow. It will take you
about 40-45 minutes to get there. Itıs a rocky trail that makes for
difficult pacing. Also watch out because the Cavalcade travels this same
trail.
Get to Crater Lake early for program. Afternoon spar climbing gets filled
up.
Day 4 ‹ Beaubien
We hiked to Crater Lake for breakfast and to load up on water. Spigot is
next to the cabin. Thereıs also a shower house up the trail to Fowlers Pass
from the cabin. Nice place to wash up before breakfast.
Itıs a steep climb out of Crater Lake to Fowler Pass. You will see Trail
Peak looming. Once you reach Fowler Pass, itıs decision time. Do you take
the "highway" to Beaubien and sidehike Trail Peak the following day? Or do
you gut it up and hike to the top of Trail Peak with full packs, eat lunch
at the airplane crash site, and hike down the other side, giving you a full
day for your layover at Beaubien?
Reasonable minds opt for the first choice. Not our guys. They decided they
didnıt want to give up the hard-earned elevation. So, we hiked up Trail Peak
with full packs. It took two hours and was the hardest part of our trek. But
the guys felt such tremendous accomplishment at having conquered the peak.
It really set the tone for the Mount Phillips and Shaeffers Pass later.
Warning: This trail is straight up. No switchbacks. If you go this way, take
plenty of breaks and drink lots of water. The effort is huge, but the reward
is great.
The wreckage is not a playground. Please treat the site with the respect it
is due.
The hike down is nice and the trail is terrific.
As you reach the bottom and emerge from the forest, youıll cross the
"highway." Thereıs a bridge marking the stream in the meadow. We stopped
there to pump enough water to get us to Beaubien. Take the path and not the
road. Itıs more scenic.
Beaubien has wood-stoked showers, washtubs, lots of potable water spigots,
and great programs. Kelly Andreason runs a great camp. Ponderosa pines give
way to spruce and fir trees. Thereıs a gorgeous high mountain meadow. Itıs a
beautiful place.
Day 5 ‹ Beaubien
If youıre headed to Trail Peak, get an early start. Youıll need it and
besides, you want to get back in time to attend program and get your boots
branded. Also, if you plan to do your conservation project here, be advised,
the hike to the project is non-trivial, so it will take a huge chunk out of
your day. We opted to do our project at Phillips Junction.
You will need to send a crew to pick up food at PJ. Itıs a very nice and
pretty hike.
Logistics overbooks horseback riding, so get there early if you want to
ride.
Showers are warm and itıs nice to wash your clothes. Not too many
opportunities from here on out, so wash everything you can.
Thereıs a Beaubien Tough Man competition, so have somebody in your crew come
up with a wild story explaining why he/she should be voted "Tough Man." This
contest is held just before the campfire, which is pretty good.
Day 6 ‹ Crooked Creek
Hike out of camp on the path that leads by the main cabin. Take the pack
trail (not the "highway") to PJ. Nice hike. PJ commissary is well-stocked,
and itıs a beautiful place to eat breakfast. Thereıs a stream that runs
through the camp. Nice place to enjoy your meal.
If you plan to do your conservation project out of PJ, be advised that you
will need to hike up and out of the PJ and head through Buck Creek Camp.
Once you emerge from Buck Creek Camp, youıll be on a 4WD road. Turn left and
go downhill about 50-100 yards. Youıll see the sign leading up the path to
the project. Be sure to take your packs because youıll hike down a different
way.
The conservation project is trailbuilding. Not many crews do their
conservation projects here, so they need all the help they can get.
After the project, take the 4WD west down to the other 4WD trail leading to
Crooked Creek. This trail is heavy with mica and will shine like rhinestones
in the sun. The white or lighter-colored mica is called muscovite. Itıs used
in all kinds of electrical insulation. Look for a piece so thin you can see
through it.
Finding the cutoff to Crooked Creek can be a little tricky. Look for a small
dead tree blocking the road on a stack of rocks. It will point to the trail
on your right. Go through the fence and you are on your way.
When you get to the meadow, the trail can get a little hard to find. Watch
out for the stream, which is tiny and hidden among the high grass. Good
place to turn and ankle. The camp is off to your right on down the meadow.
Look for the sheep, cow and mule.
No potable water here. Youıll need to purify water from the stream. The
mosquitos are bad here.
The program is homesteading. If your crew has never milked a cow before,
hereıs your chance.
Day 7 ‹ Clear Creek
There are several ways to get to Clear Creek. Our crew chose the pack trail
up Rayado Creek. Thereıs plenty of water to purify if you run shy. Note: If
you stop very long, be prepared to be eaten alive by the mosquitos.
Pretty much everything about Clear Creek is uphill. As you enter camp,
youıll see a Red Roof Inn just down the hill from the cabin. Trust me on
this, youıll want to pass this one by. Thereıs a brand new Red Roof just up
the hill from the cabin with plastic seats. Thatıs also where youıll find
potable water and a sign that points up to Mount Phillips with the notation
"11,721."
John Schroeder runs a great camp. He does a very nice cabin tour, so be sure
to take it. His advisersı coffee hour is great. Secret ingredients are
tabasco sauce, cinammon and a sock. Itıs terrific.
The Black Powder rifle shooting is way up the hill beyond the cistern. Itıs
a steep climb and the mosquitos are there waiting for you at the top. If you
have something, like a hat or a piece of leather, that you want to shoot at,
make sure you let the instructors know ahead of time and put everything out
there at the start. You wonıt be able to retrieve it until everyone has
shot.
Day 8 ‹ Cyphers Mine/Mount Phillips
Mount Phillips seems daunting, but itıs really not that bad, especially if
youıve conquered Trail Peak from the south side. Take your time. Set a smart
pace. Take lots of breaks, and youıll make it without any trouble. Thereıs a
"false peak," but after that, you are home free. Please donıt add to the
memorial at the top. Just enjoy the view and the accomplishment.
By comparison, the hike up Mount Phillips is, in many ways, easier than the
hike down. At least, the trail is better.
Once you hit Thunder Ridge, staying with the Pack Trail is difficult. Our
crew couldnıt find it and our sister crew couldnıt find it. We simply hiked
the less-glorious 4WD trail down to Cyphers Mine.
Along this trail, youıll notice a dramatic change in flora and geology. The
shift from basalt and lava to compressed sandstone, limestone and shale is
noticeable. Also, Pondersa pine starts to re-enter the picture. Your crew
wonıt notice these changes, most likely, but take the time to point them
out. If you take the 4WD trail, youıll see a very noticeable outcropping of
shale along the way.
Cyphers Mine has one of the best programs at Philmont. The mine tour,
blacksmithing and panning for gold are great. And the Stomp that night is
one of the highlights of the trek. There also is a Cyphers Mine Tough Man
competition before the Stomp, so be prepared with a new tough man story (the
crowd hates repeats).
PJ Parmar is the camp director. Emily Sanderson and Mary Hoss also are
outstanding staffers. This place is truly a gold nugget.
Thereıs potable water at the shower house, but not at the main cabin. When
we were there, they wouldnıt allow us to stoke the stove to make hot water,
so it was cold showers or no showers. Wash your clothes if you have the
time.
On the recommendation of folks on the Philmont listserv, we took some good
guitar strings to offer the staff. They truly appreciated them.
Day 9 ‹ Hunting Lodge/Cimmaroncito/Webster Parks
Like so many popular programs, the rock climbing program at Cito fills up
early. If you want to get the most out of your day, consider a very early
morning start from Cyphers Mine. If you get to the Hunting Lodge early,
Leigh might just bring out a pot of Mountain Man coffee. Itıs worth taking a
moment to enjoy her hospitality. Also, thereıs a new water spigot at Hunting
Lodge, so enjoy.
Itıs about a mile uphill to Cito. Not a bad hike, just not fun if youıve let
the sun get too high. Thereıs potable water just uphill from the main cabin
at Cito.
It is here that you must make a choice. You are going to need to make a food
run to Ute Gulch commissary. Thatıs about a 40-45 minute hike one way. If
you are fortunate to get a morning program time, then youıre golden. You can
do program, then take the entire crew to Ute Gulch for food pickup. If you
get an early afternoon program, then you need to find your four or five
fastest crew members (including adult supervision), empty your packs and
make a very swift food run to Ute Gulch. The commissary closes at noon, so
plan accordingly.
Hereıs a tip. There are two trails to Ute Gulch. Donıt take the one through
Aspen Springs Camp. Thereıs a 4WD trial that runs north through Cito. It
runs into a pack trail. Take the right fork of the pack trail and you can
cut off 10 minutes each way on your hike to Ute Gulch.
Those who stay behind can do laundry or (in our case) repair your stoves.
Be sure to tank up on water before you leave. Webster Parks is a dry camp,
regardless of what Logistics might tell you.
The pack trail to Webster Parks is just up from the water spigot and heads
northwest out of camp.
There is a nice mountain meadow at Webster Parks. The bear cables are
located around the meadow. Try not to traipse through it. If you get a
campsite on the west side of the meadow, look for an amazing sunrise the
next morning. Be sure to reserve some water for the hike to the Hunting
Lodge.
Day 10 Clarks Fork/Shaeffers Pass/Tooth Ridge
Itıs a long day, so get going early. You donıt need a lot of water to make
it to the Hunting Lodge, and the trail is easy. Eat breakfast at the Hunting
Lodge and again take advantage of the fine hospitality. If you didnıt take
your tour of the Hunting Lodge on Day 9, then be sure to take it now. Itıs
an interesting place and was the former home of Cimmaroncito.
Take just enough water to get to Clarks Fork. No need to overload. On the
way to Clarks Fork, youıll pass through a Demonstration Forest. If your
Scouts want to get the Forestry merit badge, then take an hour to walk
through this forest. Itıs worth taking the time.
At Clarks Fork, itıs time to load up on water. Itıs a Western theme camp, so
you can get anything branded that you missed out on at Beaubien.
Kathleen is a wrangler at Clarks Fork. Sheıs Mary Hossıs sister from Cyphers
Mine.
At this camp, itıs a good idea to go ahead and cook your supper for lunch.
That way you donıt need to haul extra water to the top of Tooth Ridge. Go
ahead and eat your lunch for supper on Tooth Ridge.
Some crews rush out of Clarks Fork for Tooth Ridge. Iım not sure why.
Thereıs nothing to do at Tooth Ridge except climb the Tooth, and thereıs
plenty of time for that tomorrow. Our crew enjoyed the stay. They roped,
branded, and played horseshoes.
The water spigot is just right of the main cabin. When you are ready to
leave, tank up and head out. Be advised, there is no water at Upper Clarks
Fork.
The climb to Shaeffers is tough, but if you follow the lessons you learned
at Trail Peak and Mount Phillips, then youıll be fine.
The hard part is climbing Tooth Ridge. Itıs rocky and very difficult
footing. I lost the tip to my hiking stave in the rocks. The hike is very
hard on your knees and feet. Take your time. This is the wrong place to try
to move swiftly.
Enjoy Tooth Ridge. Itıs your last night on the trail. The camp is
fascinating because of the unusual rock formations. There are rocks that
look like giant stacks of pancakes or flaky biscuits.
Relax. Youıve earned it.
Day 11 ‹ Base Camp
Our crew decided to rise early and climb the Tooth for sunrise. I donıt
advise this course of action. Itıs a steep and treacherous climb to the top,
and itıs really difficult in the dark.
But the crew wanted to do it very badly, so we buckled under the pressure.
The trail to the Tooth is well-marked. However, as you start to approach the
Tooth, it quickly becomes a jumble of rocks and if there is a trail, itıs
awfully difficult to find. We ended up scrambling over boulders en route to
the peak.
I will have to say that sitting on the peak watching sunrise was something
special. Our crew enjoyed it immensely. We took our breakfast so we could
dine on the peak. It was glorious. It also was fun to look out and see many
of the places weıd been. Lovers Leap, Urraca (thereıs a great view of
Inspiration Point), Trail Peak, Cathedral Rock.
After breakfast and photos, we broke camp and headed to Base Camp. The trail
is well-trod and very dusty. We saw our first snake here. It seemingly takes
forever, but eventually comes the reward of standing beneath the sign that
says: "Welcome Back. You Made It!"
As a side note: Once you have checked in your crew gear, have eaten lunch ,
caught the bus to Cimarron and have eaten your ice cream at the Cimarron Art
Gallery (say hi to Valerie, the owner), take time to visit the Old Mill
Museum. Not only can you see all kinds of memorabilia and history, you can
see the photos of Black Jack Ketchum (if you have the stomach for it) and
you can read the tale of Charlie Kennedy, one of the most notorious villains
of the region. You will have heard about Charlie Kennedy at the Stomp, where
PJ Parmar tells the tale. Buddy Morse, who runs the museum, is a Silver
Beaver and a recipient of the Bronze Star. Heıs quite a character and worth
the price of admission (which is only $1 if you are wearing your Scout
uniform ‹ Class B is OK).
Itıs a great itinerary and a great trek. Enjoy!
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As you gather around this virtual campfire with fellow
Scouts and Scouters, do your best to be trustworthy,
loyal, helpful, friendly, courteous, kind, obedient,
cheerful, thrifty, brave, clean and reverent.
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Received on Mon Jul 14 12:55:02 2003
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