[Philmont]: Philmont Report

Grettings to All.

Just returned from the Ranch, around midmight last night. Here is my
"quickie" report, for the benefit of the small percentage of List
readers who haven't gone yet. Note that I have 1700+ emails awaiting,
and I did go to work today, so some of my comments may already be old
news - if so, my apologies for wasting your time.

Preamble: This was my 11th trek. My last trek was in 2002, and so
comparisons are primarily versus that rather abnormal year. This year,
we took Trek 32, and added additional trails to (I believe) push it up
to just over 100 miles. Our Ranger was Jonathan Sucher, who is the son
of Dr. John Sucher, a sometimes past contributor to this List.

Comments are in no particular order of priority:

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1) Food - Overall, food quality is improved, both at Basecamp and in the
backcountry. Not to say that either was fabulous, but I was definitely
impressed, and the Ranch has clearly made an effort to address past
concerns.

Basecamp fare is the best I can recall - again, not to imply that it's
great, but at least it doesn't make you long for the trail food.

Trail fare is much improved. Cracker-mania and "Spreadables" are
history. Most meals were varied and satisfying - only a few were a
little thin. There was only a minor need to supplement these latter
meals - this is the first time I have ever said that! If you care to
supplement, I would recommend bringing additional *meat* items like Slim
Jims, vacuum packed pepperoni, more beef jerky, and similar.

"Swap" boxes are "Swipe" boxes at all but a few camps. The amount of
food overall is adequate such that the swap boxes usually have some
useful items in them, being replenished and depleted all day long (some
Crews hungry, others not). The "perpetual" items this year were PB and
jelly squeezers, dried cranberries, Gatorade packets, and large packets
of granola. That constituted about half to three quarters of every box
I looked at - the rest being a mix of many other items. The staffs are
also doing a better job of keeping the boxes cleared out of opened
and/or sticky crap, and garbage, at least at the camps I visited.

The Chuckwagon Breakfasts and Dinners were the best I have ever seen.
All you can eat, and pretty good stuff, too. Don't blow them off.

Negative Notes: (i) All Gatorade packets are in lunches only - none in
BF's or dinners. This is encouraging their use in canteens, and I saw a
huge number of Scouts and Advisors with Gatorade in all their canteens
and/or camelbaks and similar hydration bladders. Y'all know how I feel
about this foolish practice, so n'uff said. We used Gatorade only at
dinners, in our cups (where it belongs). (ii) They are now using canned
ham and chicken instead of spreadables. As in, "real meat". However,
they are in the lunches. We used them instead to supplement the main
dinner items, making much better main courses. Suggest you do likewise.
  There is adequate squeeze cheese, etc., to replace them in the lunches.

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Mosquitos - After reading all the warnings on this List earlier this
season, we came with three times as much insect repellant as we normally
bring. We didn't open a single bottle. I was bitten maybe half a dozen
times in 12 days and nights. I have no viable explanation as to why
this issue went from red-line to nearly nonexistent in three weeks, but
that's how it was for Trek 32 these past two weeks.

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Weather - As of yesterday morning (7/24), the monsoonal flow had not
started over New Mexico, and the prevailing wind was northwest for all
but two days of my trek (the other two days it was from the northeast).
  Mornings were the warmest I have EVER experienced - the lowest for the
entire trek was 42 degrees (warmest was 56 degrees). Afternoons were
hot, probably in the 80's most days, but it was really cooking in the
sun. Programs forced us into several mid-to-late afternoon hikes, and
we suffered for it, especially when we had to hike roads or through the
burned-off areas.

The first half of the trek, we had the usual typical afternoon boomers,
usually firing up over Baldy and Touch Me Not and heading southeast
across the Ranch. Three days were had secondary thunderstorm
development in the early evening, which were a pain in the butt but
otherwise no big deal. The last five days we had one 10 minute shower,
that was it.

We missed only one program (Continental Tie and Lumber Company) due to
weather, but that was as much a result of a late start because of the
mandatory burro policy than the weather - had we not had to take the
burro, we would easily have gotten CT&L in too, before the rains came.

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Water - Was plentiful. The only source on Trek 32 that is starting to
slow down is Visto Grande, 2 liters/minute on 7/20. The streams are
again running clear, even those in the middle of the burned-off zones.
Quite a contrast versus 2002.

I did not stop at the Shaefers Pass spring, but I was told it was
flowing hard on 7/22 and 7/23, something like 5 liters per minute or
more. That is hearsay, so take it with a pinch of salt. FWIW, we
carried water from Clark's Fork for our last night (at Ponderosa Park)
and final day over the Tooth.

MicroPur is easy to use. I will know in about a week to 10 days how
effective it was.... Ahem. Of note, if you have a higher number trek,
or a trek with a lot of trail camps, you really need to insist on more
tablets - they treat everyone the same, whether they're on Trek 2 or
Trek 32: One strip of 12 per trekker. We had to use our Polar Pure
twice because we ran out of M-P tablets (after that, per our request
they gave us 18 strips instead of 12 strips; that covered it for the
second half of our trek). I recommend you bring a pair of scissors to
open the M-P tablet strips (foil packets).

Of real disappointment, we found 5 or 6 Crews wading and bathing in the
Cimarron when we crossed over at the Bear Canyon/Rt. 64 tunnel/bridge.
I was absolutely furious, but held my tongue. At Upper Bench later that
evening, an Advisor from one of these Crews (who had seen the rage on my
face as we walked through the tunnel and saw what was happening)
justified this behavior by telling me that the river was off Philmont
property, so Philmont rules did not apply there. I told him I really
wasn't interested in his reasons, or in discussing it any further, and
so can we talk about something else? He quickly changed the topic.
N'uff said....

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Wildlife - We saw no bears or mountain lions. We did see an unusually
large number of turkey, and lots of mule deer. Of note, the mini-bears
are out of control, and we had to leave a guard on our pack line every
time we left it. As in, otherwise come back and find 10 - 30 minibears
feasting on your gear. No, I'm not kidding. There are a lot of
Philmont packs with chewed holes in them. This is the second worst year
for mini-bears in my experience.

Most Crews did see one or two bears, almost all while hiking. No one I
talked to had any issues with bears in their sites, or raiding their gear.

If I had to fault Philmont on anything this year, it would be mountain
lion training, which is virtually nonexistent. I instituted a buddy
policy in my Crews for all activities at trail camps, including latrine
visits, fetching water, visiting bear bags, etc., etc. With special
caution not to be alone or running down any trail at dawn or dusk. I
recommend you do the same. I was stunned to hear (from the staff) that
they have had at least one and more likely two mountain lions prowling
around the Ponil Cantina show on multiple nights this year. Again, that
info is from staffers, not hearsay from campers. A few Advisors and
Staffers also told me of finding tracks around campsites. IMO, we are
going to lose a Scout or Advisor to a mountain lion if we don't all
tighten up on this. These things are a hell of a lot more dangerous
than bears, and we are not giving them proper respect. Remember, when
worse comes to worst, you can fight it out with a bear, and a good
scream will get you lots of help too - but a mountain lion attacks from
above and behind, and the attack is usually instantly fatal to the
victim. Not to unduly scare people, but everyone needs to understand
that at Philmont, we're on the menu now....

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Camps and Trails - There have apparently been multiple instances of
starter camps being way overbooked. Our first night at Anasazi, we had
four more Crews than sites, and it was more a Camporee than a wilderness
experience. Not sure what's going on here, or what can be done about
it, but at least be aware of the possibility. Early arrivals at camps
will obviously help. In our case, we invited the excess Crews to camp
alongside us, and to use our fire ring and sump. If you find yourself
in the same boat, please offer the same courtesies.

In a similar problem, "wildcatting" at Shaefers Pass and Tooth Ridge was
just out of control this past Friday night (at least), and it is my
understanding it has been this way for half the season. If you are
scheduled at either camp and show up late, don't be at all surprised if
you find every site long taken, by Crews that have no business being
there. Philmont needs to get a handle on this problem, and soon.

Another problem that is out of control is night-hiking the Shaefers
Peak/Tooth of Time ridgeline trail. I am guessing at least a dozen
Crews did so this past Friday night/Saturday morning. Again, y'all know
my opinion on this foolishness, so I won't belabor it any further other
than to say: Don't!!!

Trail-Signs - An increasing number of signs are either down or missing
altogether. I strongly urge everyone to be very meticulous in checking
maps constantly, and avoid getting separated on the trails.

"Bare" Trails - The fire areas have been extensively re-seeded, in most
cases with amazing sucess. However, these areas are still wide open to
the sun, and are VERY HOT from mid-afternoon on. If you are faced with
such hikes, be sure to bring extra water. I taught my Scouts to keep
their hair wet and/or wear wet bandannas to keep cooler while hiking in
the sun. You may wish to do the same.

----------

Advisor's Lounge - As y'all know, I usually avoid the A-L like the
plague, but I risked a 30 second visit this year. This past Sunday,
there were about 30 PowerMax cartridges and about a dozen Bic lighters
sitting there, free for the taking. You can't ship or take them home,
so people are leaving their excess behind. If you're a PowerMax guy, I
suggest you check the lounge first, before buying at the Trading Post.

In addition, there were two (maybe three?) power strips in the lounge,
with about 20 (unattended) cell phones charging away. The honor system
appears to be in effect, and working. Other people were charging cell
phones in the bathrooms, but that was only one or two here and there -
the A-L seems to be Charging Central.

Note that my co-Advisor and I saw several requests at staff camps to
recharge cell phones or other electronic devices (e.g., camcorders). In
all cases, the staff refused to allow this. Fair warning - don't expect
an accommodation in the backcountry.

----------

Campfire Programs - IMO, were down a bit this year, both at Basecamp and
in the backcountry. More slapstick comedy and much fewer songs than
past years. I would catch them if I was at the camp (like Ponil,
Pueblano, or Clark's Fork), but frankly I wouldn't bother if I was at a
feeder camp like Dean Cutoff, Flume Canyon, or Ponderosa Park, unless
you're REALLY into them. And I NEVER thought I'd say this!

Of note, if you have any Triple Crown Award winners completing their
third leg at Philmont (Sea Base, Northern Tier, Philmont, in any order),
they will announce it at the closing campfire. Make sure they know well
in advance.

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Mandatory Burros - Are indeed "mandatory". A lot of people are unhappy
about this policy, but there have been few exceptions granted (2 or 3 so
far this summer is what I heard). The burro training takes 2 - 2.5
hours, and starts at 9:00 am, guaranteeing a late start and a hot hike.
  The wranglers are insisting that the burros only go up roads, whereas
the backcountry staffers are saying you can go over trails (like Wilson
Mesa) if you like. Because of the conflict, we (reluctantly) stuck with
the roads. Yucch.

----------

Separated Crews - There were two instances of lost campers over the past
two weeks, one of which apparently involved a very wide SAR to find said
camper at like 2:30 am. Both instances arose from Crews separating on
the trail while hiking. We happened to pass two grim-faced gold-tabs
and a large Ranger heading into Copper Park to "discuss" the situation
with the above specified 2:30 am Crew, and they didn't look real
pleased. Suggest you not allow this to happen with your Crew.

----------

That's it for now. I have a gear-sorting session in an hour, so I don't
know if I'll get to review my emails tonight or not (I'm still pretty
whipped). If I see anything else that I can address, I will do so late
tonight or tomorrow. I hope this helps anyone who is about to head out.

- Dr. Bob

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As you gather around this virtual campfire with fellow
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Received on Mon Jul 25 15:46:09 2005